Gucci, Cavalli

Busy is the calendar of a devoted fashionista: the London Fashion Week barely has wrapped up and it's time to rush off to Milan. On the first day of the Milan Fashion Week, the collection that has stolen the spotlight was definetely Gucci's. The buzz around Gucci hasn't quitened down for a year, since designer Alessandro Michele took over and got the fashion world in love with the luxurious nerdy aesthetics. In the time for the new collection designer’s inspiration didn’t shift him off to a completely unfamiliar territory, but certainly took him somewhere new. The glamorously nerdy aesthetics has gotten a more womanly twist—with long gowns, dresses with fluted sleeves, short studded leather suits and giant furs. Interestingly, that while fashion weeks in New York and London has witnessed early attempts of the bold ‘direct-to-consumer’ fashion show model, leaders of French and Italian markets cast their loud veto to the practice. Gucci, in particular, seems to be the brand that puts quite a resistance to the ‘buy off the catwalk’ model, as it eliminates the dreaming and sweet waiting that is the essence of a luxury fashion show. 

Peter Dundas, showing his creations for Cavalli the same day, seems to have been caught somewhere in between: perhaps not a strong supporter of the direct buying approach, but as confessed to the media, he would like to see his collections in stores more quickly than the current system permits. For the first cold weather collection after his return to Cavalli last year, designer served up the Seventies luxe, yet again. Models strolled down the runway in long skirts, short bomber jackets, gold suits, parading the leopard prints with several additions of skinny scarves and iconic supersized accessories. 


伦敦时装周刚刚收尾,为时尚潮流而忙碌的人们又该转战米兰了。米兰时装周的第一天,Gucci 不出意外地吸引了大家的眼球,成为了聚光灯下的宠儿。自从崇尚设计美学的设计师Alessandro Michele接任以来,时尚界便一直对Gucci 的设计充满期待。新一批设计的灵感也的确在保留品牌原有风格的基础上有了创新。设计师利用美学概念,让服装更能够体现出女性独有的魅力,比如长款礼服,带袖连衣裙,短款皮具以及大篇幅的毛皮。值得注意的是,纽约时装周和伦敦时装周一早便大胆尝试了“直面消费者”即看即买的秀场模式。但是法国和意大利的市场并不赞成这种模式。特别是Gucci品牌,并不支持这种即看即买模式,因为奢侈品的经典就在于不断的梦想和等待,而即看即买模式失去了奢侈品时装秀原有的精髓和品质。

Perter Dundas,也在同一天发布了他为Cavalli 所设计的产品。对于即看即买的秀场模式,他个人保持中立态度:并不绝对支持即看即买,但是他也希望消费者今后可以更快地在市面上买到他们心仪已久的产品。作为Peter Dundas回归Cavalli之后的第一个秋冬发布会,设计师再一次展现了70年代的奢华。模特身着长裙,短夹克,金色西装搭配紧身围巾以及标志性的超大型配件,在T台上绽放着独有的气质。

The Maker