The Dissonance at Pitti Uomo
Pitti Uomo is perhaps the last harbor in the entire world for the true dandies, those who haven’t yet traded their elegant suits for sweatpants looking attire. The 91st edition of the trade show gathered the usual fabulous guest crowd, yet we could not help but wonder: is the gap between street style of the show and what’s actually going on the runways growing bigger each year?
This season’s Pitti Uomo went by the theme “Pitti Dance Off” and some presented lines like the show of Sansovino 6 did feel like what dancers wear on their days off. Special guests of the January edition of the trade show included Paul Smitt, Tim Coppens, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand and Cottweiler, which presented their Reebok collaboration.
Although some argue, that the whole “peacock” phenomenon is fading, the street style of Pitti Uomo is still ruled by the incredible looks put on display by the trade show goers. In January they represent the art of being every inch as stylish despite the cold and every second ready to be photographed in their Sunday’s finest. We still get the already iconic shots of crowds of men pretending to be on their cellphones to be noticed and featured on the Pitti Uomo street style diaries. But what these elegant men find once they enter the show and get to be the first ones to see the runway collections?
Pitti Uomo 91 did not disappoint, bringing together sartorial, genderless looks and sport. But if the looks of the guests seem carefully crafted to the socks pattern, the general theme of all the runway shows feels all very effortless chic. Thus the question: “ In the “post-fashion”, Gosha Rubchinsky aesthetics fashion, is male elegance a dying breed? “
这一季的Pitti Uomo主题是“Pitti Dance Off”和一些节目比如Sansovino 6的演出让我们看到舞者在休息日的着装。一月份展会的特殊来宾包括包括Paul Smitt、Tim Coppens，Golden Goose Deluxe Brand 以及最近和Reebok合作的Cottweiler。
虽然有人认为整个“孔雀”现象正在衰落，Pitti Uomo街头风格仍以令人难以置信的统治力驾驭着展会。在一月，他们代表着每一寸无视寒冷的时尚艺术，每秒钟都准备好拍星期日最好的照片。我们看到了标志性的穿着Pitti Uomo街头风格的人群假装打电话来吸引注意力。但是这些优雅的男士进入展会并成为看到展品的第一批观众之后又会发现什么样的新东西呢？
Pitti Uomo 91没有让人失望，将剪裁、中性风格与运动相结合。但是如果客人从头到脚都精致考究，所有展示的主题就都会显得非常轻松。于是乎就有了这样的问题：“在“后时尚”时代，在Gosha Rubchinsky的时尚审美下，男性的优雅正在濒临灭绝吗？”